
by MaryAnn Worobiec
"Carneros sits on San Pablo Bay north of San Francisco, which gives it a maritime climate and adds a distinct acidity and citrus quality to its Chardonnays. Napa Valley (which overlaps Carneros in part) is known for a warm climate that suits it well to Cabernet Sauvignon, but there are mountains and cooler sites where Chardonnay excels. You could expect more pear, fig and apple notes in Napa Chardonnays, with some of them made in a more opulent style.
At the top of this week’s list is David Ramey’s eponymous label. Ramey has made terrific wines at Matanzas Creek and Chalk Hill before starting his own label. Ramey’s signature balance of intensity and elegance is evident in both of his wines listed here, tapping grapes from some of the best-known vineyards in the area, Hudson and Hyde..."
RAMEY Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hudson Vineyard 2007 Score: 92 | $60
Intense and vibrant, this shows full-bodied citrus, melon, pear and hazelnut flavors that turn subtle and offer hints of fig and tangerine, while maintaining its velocity. Drink now through 2014. 975 cases made. —J.L.
FERRARI-CARANO Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Reserve 2007 Score: 90 | $32
An elegant, delicate style, firm yet supple and focused, with a complex mix of ripe pear, spice, honeysuckle and melon, ending with a long, cleansing finish. Drink now through 2014. 5,800 cases made. —J.L.
HDV Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2007 Score: 90 | $60
Chablis-like for Carneros Chardonnay, this is firm and flinty, with citrus, lime, green apple and mineral notes that have a touch of petrol, ending with a juicy apricot edge. Drink now through 2014. 924 cases made. —J.L.
RAMEY Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Hyde Vineyard 2007 Score: 90 | $60
Clean and refreshing, with ripe, fresh, snappy citrus, green apple and pear flavors that are pure, focused, moderately rich and pleasantly cleansing, with a snappy minerality. Drink now through 2015. 1,795 cases made. —J.L.
CUVAISON Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros S Block 2008 Score: 88 | $36
Rich and creamy, with orange peel, citrus, toasty oak, fig and apricot flavors that are full-bodied, if raw and pithy on the finish. Drink now through 2014. 884 cases made. —J.L.
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